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On the menu today:
horse penis and testicles with a chilli dip
By Richard Spencer in Beijing
The menu at Beijing's latest venue for its growing
army of gourmets is eye-watering rather than
mouth-watering.
China's cuisine is renowned for being "in your face" -
from the skinned dogs displayed at food markets to the
kebabbed scorpions sold on street stalls - and there
is no polite way of describing Guo-li-zhuang.
A dish combining the male organs of an ox and a snake
Situated in an elegantly restored house beside
Beijing's West Lake, it is China's first speciality
penis restaurant.
Here, businessmen and government officials can sample
the organs of yaks, donkeys, oxen and even seals. In
fact, they have to, since they form part of every dish
- except for those containing testicles.
"This is my third visit," said one customer, Liu
Qiang. "Of course, there are other restaurants that
serve the bian of individual animals. But this is the
first that brings them all together."
Guolizhuang's owner, who set it up in November, is
proud to combine his own surname (Guo), his wife's
(Li) and his son's nickname (Zhuang) into its title.
A booking comes with a trained waitress and a
nutritionist in attendance, to explain the menu and to
boast its medicinal virtues.
Dog's penis, garnished with a plum
In China, you are what you eat, and The Daily
Telegraph's nutritionist, Zhu Yan, said the clients
were mainly men eager to improve their yang, or
virility. Women could benefit, too, she added,
although she told the Telegraph's female photographer:
"I wouldn't recommend the testicles. The testosterone
might interfere in fertility. But many women say bian
is good for the skin."
Some dishes appear unexceptional, such as the simple
goat penis, sliced, dipped in flour, fried, and served
skewered with soy sauce.
But Guolizhuang also has its showpieces, such as the
elegantly named "Head crowned with a Jade Bracelet"
(provided by horses from the western Muslim region of
Xin-jiang), for £20 a portion, or "Dragon in the Flame
of Desire" (yak, steamed whole, fried and flambéed)
for £35.
For beginners, Miss Zhu recommended the hotpot, which
offers a sampling of what the restaurant has to offer
- six types of penis, and four of testicle, boiled in
chicken stock by the waitress, Liu Yunyang, 22.
The Russian dog was first. It was julienned, and
rather gamey.
The ox was, of all six, the most recognisable for what
it was, even though it had been diced. In texture
seemed identical to gristle.
The deer and the Mongolian goat were surprisingly
similar: a little stringy, they had the appearance and
feel of overcooked squid tentacles. The Xinjiang horse
and the donkey, on the other hand, were quite
different. Though both came sliced lengthwise, and
looked like bacon, the horse was light and fatty,
while the donkey had a firm colour and taste. The
testicles were slightly crumbly, and tasted better
with lashings of the sesame, soy and chilli dips
thoughtfully provided.
One speciality, Canadian seal penis, costs a hefty
£220, and requires ordering in advance. Miss Liu
confessed that Guo-li-zhuang was an unusual place to
work, partly because of her training - she has to
recite tales proving the vigour of the animals in
question as they are being eaten - and partly because
of the interaction with the clientele. "I did find it
embarrassing at first," she said. "And sometimes the
customers take advantage of me by asking rude
questions."
As for the supposed health benefits, Mr Liu, the most
regular customer, was uncertain but hopeful. "I can't
say I've noticed any difference yet," he said. "But
it's a long-term thing."
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